Things to Do in Palawan

About Palawan

Palawan doesn’t just look different — it feels different. The air here is heavy, not just with humidity but with the scent of damp earth, salt, and something faintly floral that you can’t quite name. You’ll feel it first in Puerto Princesa, where the orderly grid of Rizal Avenue gives way to the chaos of the Baywalk at dusk, the smell of grilled tamilok (woodworm, a local delicacy that tastes of the sea and iron) mixing with the diesel fumes of tricycles ferrying families to the Underground River. But the real Palawan begins where the paved road ends. In El Nido, the soundtrack is the whine of outrigger boats leaving for the Bacuit Archipelago at sunrise and the clink of San Miguel bottles on the sand at Las Cabanas Beach as the sun drops behind Cadlao Island. Up north in Coron, the air carries the faint, sulfuric tang of the Kayangan Lake hike, a steep climb rewarded by water so clear and still it feels like floating in a giant, warm emerald. A fresh coconut from a roadside stall in Sabang will set you back ₱50 ($0.90), and a three-island hopping tour from El Nido, including lunch grilled on a deserted beach, costs around ₱1,200 ($21) — a fraction of what you’d pay for a similar experience in the Caribbean or Mediterranean. The trade-off is the infrastructure, or lack of it: the roads connecting towns are often single-lane and punishingly slow, power cuts are a fact of life, and in peak season, the main beaches can feel as crowded as a festival. But that’s the price for a place that still feels wild at its core, where the jungle comes right up to the water’s edge and the stars at night are so bright they cast shadows. You come here not for luxury, but for the specific, humbling feeling of being a very small creature in a very ancient, beautiful world.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Getting around Palawan is an exercise in patience and planning. The tricycles in Puerto Princesa are your workhorses — a short trip within the city center should cost ₱10-15 ($0.18-$0.27) per person, but you’ll need to haggle firmly. For the long haul north to El Nido or Coron, you have two options: the public van (cramped, stops for everyone, 5-6 hours, ₱500-700 / $9-$12.50) or a private van (more expensive but direct, negotiable). The real insider move is to fly directly into El Nido’s tiny airport if your budget allows — it saves a full day of travel. Once in El Nido or Coron, book your island-hopping tours through your accommodation or a small, licensed operator you find on the ground; the big online aggregators tend to mark things up by 30%.

Money: The Philippines runs on cash, and Palawan especially so. While hotels and some larger restaurants in Puerto Princesa or El Nido town might accept cards, you’ll need crisp Philippine pesos for market stalls, tricycles, small eateries (carinderias), and boat tours. ATMs are available in the main towns, but they can run out of cash on weekends — stock up when you see one. A solid meal at a simple roadside carinderia (think garlic rice, grilled fish, and vegetables) costs around ₱150-200 ($2.70-$3.60). Tipping isn’t expected but is appreciated for good service; rounding up the bill or leaving loose change is the norm. One pitfall: money changers at the airport offer terrible rates. Bring USD or EUR to change in town, where the rates are markedly better.

Cultural Respect: Palawanos are famously friendly, but a few gestures go a long way. When meeting someone, a slight nod or a polite "Good morning/afternoon" (Magandang umaga/hapon) is appreciated. Dress modestly when visiting towns and villages — covering shoulders and knees is respectful, especially for women. When entering someone’s home or even some small shops, you might notice a small basin of water by the door; it’s for washing your feet. In the Indigenous communities around Puerto Princesa and the northern islands, always ask permission before taking photographs of people or their homes. A good rule of thumb: if you wouldn’t do it in your own grandmother’s house, don’t do it here. The pace of life is slower; smiling while you wait goes further than showing frustration.

Food Safety: You’ll eat incredibly well here if you follow a few rules. The golden one: eat where the locals are eating, especially at lunchtime. A busy carinderia has high turnover, which means fresher food. For street food, look for items cooked to order right in front of you — the sizzling isaw (grilled chicken intestines) or kwek-kwek (battered quail eggs) are safer bets than pre-prepared salads. Seafood is the star; if it smells like the ocean (clean and briny), not fishy, it’s fresh. Ice in drinks is generally safe in established restaurants and bars. Carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer, as utensils might just be rinsed in a basin. The local trick: a dash of kalamansi (local lime) juice on everything isn’t just for flavor — the acidity has mild antibacterial properties.

When to Visit

Palawan’s seasons are dictated by two things: the sun and the rain. The dry season, roughly late November to early May, is when everything is open, the sea is flat as glass for island-hopping, and the sun is relentless. This is peak season. December to February is the ‘cooler’ dry period, with temperatures around 24-30°C (75-86°F), lower humidity, and European-level crowds — expect hotel prices to be at their highest, often 50-70% more than the low season. March to May is the hot dry season, where the mercury climbs to 32-35°C (90-95°F) and the landscape starts to brown. It’s still crowded, but you might find slightly better deals towards May. The green season (June to October) is a different, wilder Palawan. Rain can be heavy, especially in July and August, turning dirt roads to mud and sometimes canceling boat trips for days. But the hills are an impossible shade of emerald, waterfalls are full, and you’ll have stretches of beach to yourself. Hotel prices during these months can drop by 40% or more. September and October are your best bet for dodging the worst rains while still catching lower prices and thinner crowds — it’s a calculated risk that tends to pay off. If you’re here for diving, visibility is best from March to June, though the water is warm year-round. For families, the predictable weather of the dry season is easier. For adventurers and budget travelers who don’t mind a bit of mud, the green season offers a more raw and affordable experience.